The Ultimate Guide to Chassis Care and Maintenance for Mitsubishi

A lot of the parts of a Mitsubishi chassis need lubrication to be able to move at all, let alone well. They get low on grease, and they'll start to wear out, and fast. Of course, they go bad, and you won't just end up stranded on the side of the road. You'll also end up in the shop, stuck with a bill for some seriously costly repairs.

Luckily, you can keep that from happening. One of the best ways to do it is to stay on top of regular service -- namely, by lubing up chassis parts every 6 months or so, or every couple oil changes. If you're wondering how to figure out what should be lubricated, you've come to the right Mitsubishi online parts store for advice.

Here's all you need to know.

Maintaining a Mitsubishi Chassis 101

Whether you drive an older Mitsubishi model or a late one, the chassis in it -- it's got a lot of moving parts. Not the least among them is the driveshaft. Of course, there are also universal joints/U-joints, if not constant velocity joints/CV joints, not to mention loads of parts in the steering and suspension systems: a sway bar, bushings, end links, control arms and their bushings, ball joints or kingpins, inner and outer tie rod ends, drag links, idler arms, Pitman arms, you name it. Most of them are going to need greasing somewhere or another.

That means, then, before doing anything, familiarizing yourself with any chassis care recommended in your owner's manual or other manufacturer's documentation; it'll likely have info that's more model-specific -- most importantly, grease zerks. They're the lube points on the many parts of your ride's chassis.

Now, do the following:

1. Grab supplies. Pick up some grease, a grease gun, a pair of work gloves, and some rags, for starters. Because chassis parts have to be reached from the underbody, for the most part, have a car jack and jack stands on hand, too. But if you're working without a full lift, be sure to use more than a hydraulic jack: use both secure jack stands and braces; it'll be the safest bet.
2. Prep your grease gun. Lock and load it up, following your brand's instructions on how. Note: different chassis components need different lubricants sometimes. Use them separately; don't mix them.
3. Jack the car up and run an inspection. Make sure anything that needs replacement, gets it. Tie rods and steering parts with dust boots and bushings, for example, can crack and start to fall off as they age; notice that happening, change them. CV joint boots can also crack, not to mention leak grease; notice that, and you'll need to replace and lube them. Also, look for "play" or uncontrolled motion in steering components like the U-joints and driveshaft; find anything unusual, replace any parts that you have to. And if you need help with anything, feel free to get in touch with a Mitsubishi dealer to schedule a service appointment.
4. Get greasing. Lube every spot that the literature (the maintenance schedule or otherwise) says you should. Any part doesn't let you grease it, the zerk's probably bad; you'll need to replace it. A zerk should unscrew easily, just like a bolt; just swap out the old for the new. Some spots may not have have grease fittings, though, as they might be factory- greased and -sealed; to lube polyurethane parts, spray silicone or an all-purpose grease, if directions say you can, and to grease metal joints and bushings, take things apart, apply lube directly, and put them back together.

When it comes to replacement parts -- for the chassis, steering, suspension system, or otherwise -- we've got what you need. It's genuine OEM, too -- of the top quality you've come to expect from Mitsubishi. Take advantage of competitive pricing and fast US shipping and order now -- you'll have chassis lubrication done, and your ride back on the road, in no time.